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Roots and Shoots woodchip is the best there is. We chip it ourselves from our tree surgery timber using larger chipping machines so there is more chunky wood pieces and less leaf in the chips, and we always keep the blades sharp so stringy bits are rare.
| Standard Woodchip for Garden Mulch | Superior Woodchip for Heating Boilers | |
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| Made from branchwood up to 12in using Schleising woodchippers. It is composted to kill plant pests and diseases, neurtalise plant toxins and produce a pleasing dark brown mulch. | Made exclusively from seasoned timber over 12in diameter with no leaves or twigs. We use Heizohack woodchippers that are designed specially to produce boiler grade woodchip. |
Our woodchip can be used for woodland paths or to create a soft landing area for your childrens play area or horse riding arena.
Our standard woodchip is composted to kill plant pests and diseases and to neutralise plant toxins. This means the woodchip mulch will work better, look better, and last longer than what is available from other tree surgeons.
Mulching simply means putting a layer of cover on the surface of the ground which will rot into the soil over a period of time. Wood chipping's are ideal for use around the garden as a mulch on your shrub beds.
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| Weed supressing membrane underneath our woodchip. | A woodland mulch among the trees. |
Improvement of soil structure as the woodchip rots down.
The mulch protects the soil from heavy rain and stops the soil compacting.
When the organic matter rots down it is food for earth worms which further help the soil as they burrow creating channels which improves aeration and water drainage.
Insulation of soil from extreme temperatures. A thick layer of mulch on the soil acts as an insulator which helps root development.
Reduces evaporation from the soil and reduces the amount of time spent watering the garden.
Suppresses weed growth in your flower beds.
You will need 4 inches of mulch to completely block the light
from the soil beneath.
(If your mulch is too thick your mulch may damage the base of
plant stems.)
The latest teaching on the Royal Forestry
Society Certificate in Arboriculture course at Plumpton Agricultural
College in Sussex includes the following information from Prof
Ed Gillman at Florida University.
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Apply a 4 thick layer of mulch to at least an eight-foot diameter circle Apply a thinner layer of mulch over the root ball, but keep it at least 10 from the trunk Mulch as large an area as possible to allow the trees roots to expand without competition from turf roots |
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Apply a 4-inch thick (3in after settling) layer of mulch to at least an eight-foot diameter circle around the plant, or maintain the area weed free with herbicides, to help discourage weeds and turf. This area should be maintained during the establishment period at least two feet in diameter (preferably three feet) for each inch of tree trunk diameter (to encourage rapid establishment, minimum diameter should be eight feet for trees with a trunk diameter less than 3 inches). Apply a thinner layer of mulch over the root ball, for aesthetic reasons if you wish, but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk (20-inch diameter mulch-free area) so the trunk bark can dry. This also allows rainwater, irrigation, and air to easily enter the root ball since it does not have to drain through the mulch. Mulch resting on the trunk and applying too thick a layer can kill the plant by holding water meant for the roots, oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to trunk, keeping the root ball too wet, and repelling water if the mulch dries out.
Turf roots are very competitive with tree roots. This competition can dramatically slow the rate of tree root growth into the landscape soil, and this can cause the tree to become unhealthy. Once the tree is established, the mulch area can shrink.
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Tel: 01483 503361, for an immediate response, speak to Shaun Petty on mobile: 07768 456828
.